Breeding dogs has been a lifelong hobby for many individuals. Breeding is half art, part science, and all dedication, and it will show you the finest of the human-dog relationship. It's both thrilling and tough.

Purebred dog breeding is also time-consuming, costly, and, sometimes, devastating. If you continue, your primary goal should be to enhance the breed rather than simply expand its numbers.

Knowing how to breed a litter should be the first step. Breeders who are responsible invest time in learning everything they can about their breed, canine health and training, and medical standards. How do you go about becoming an expert?

Take a look at the breed standard. Every breeder should start with this approved form of the "ideal" breed specimen.

Participate in activities with dogs. Examine the pedigrees of your favorite dogs and watch them in action. Inquire with breeders who are familiar with your breed. To discover more about your breed's national parent club, go to their website. Locate and attend a local club meeting to meet other breeders.

Step 2: Improve through Breeding

“Breed to Improve” is the slogan of a responsible purebred dog breeder.

To its owner, every dog is the finest dog on the planet. Responsible breeders, on the other hand, prevent "kennel blindness" by taking a step back and honestly evaluating their dogs' positive and poor aspects before deciding to breed. After all, the objective of breeding is to produce a superior dog and a high-quality pet.

Take a close look at your dog. Recognize the faults in it. If you wish to continue reproducing, search for a partner who can eradicate or balance those faults. Your breed's national parent club may potentially be able to help.

Step 3: Recognize the Commitment

Puppy raising is a full-time job. Normally, the mother takes care of the puppies' needs during the first few weeks, however, problems, such as a dam without milk or an orphaned litter, might occur. The breeder must provide a safe, warm, dry environment for the puppies, as well as adequate food and water for the bitch.

When puppies are weaned, they are even more work (and more pleasure!). Feeding, cleaning, grooming, training, and veterinary care take up a lot of time, leaving you with little free time.

The financial expense of having a litter of pups is another issue to consider. The expense of whelping and rearing puppies may be quite costly, especially if difficulties develop. From genetic screening and health testing before breeding to the extra food, supplies, and medical care necessary after the puppies are born, the cost of whelping and maintaining puppies can be very high.

Responsible breeders ensure that their puppies are given to owners who will love and care for them as much as they have loved and cared for them. This entails a thorough examination and screening of each individual or family interested in adopting a puppy.

Breeders who are responsible study everything they can about their breed and are aware of all the advantages and disadvantages of ownership. It's critical to convey this information to potential puppy owners, even the bad elements. You should be able to explain why a dog that requires a lot of coat care or training isn't the greatest fit for a workaholic, or why a little dog isn't the best fit for a household with small, energetic children. You should be dedicated to putting pups in responsible homes that will care for them well.

Step 4: Find an Appropriate Partner

When choosing a mating partner (most likely a sire for your mother), remember this basic rule: match animals that complement each other. Choose a dog with genetics that will help your bitch overcome her flaws while emphasizing her strengths. If your bitch's coat isn't as nice as it could be, for example, look for a companion from a line of dogs with good coats. Of course, putting this common-sense adage into practice can be difficult since you must consider all of the elements that influence the dogs' characteristics and looks. Research, as well as the advice and expertise of other breeders, are essential in this field.

Temperament and health are two important aspects to consider while making your decision.

Temperament in dogs is a genetic feature, although it can be modified by various circumstances. Breeds with the right temperament to pull sleds, follow scent on trails, and recover game were finally developed via years of selection. Temperament inheritance factors are complicated. You should never, ever contemplate breeding a dog with a bad disposition.

In terms of health, you should be aware that dogs are susceptible to a variety of genetic disorders, some of which can be debilitating or deadly. If you breed dogs, your objective should be to create dogs free of the major genetic illnesses that plague your breed.

Step 5: Understand Your Genetics

You need to have a rudimentary grasp of genetics to be a successful breeder. The genes handed down from their parents, and their ancestors before them will influence everything about your future pups' health, soundness, appearance, and temperament. As a result, selecting a mating couple should be based on an awareness of how the animal's genes contributed to its appearance and how those genes are passed on and manifested, rather than merely on the dog's or bitch's looks (or temperament, or soundness, etc.). That is why it is critical to research your mating pair's pedigrees.The more knowledge you have before making a decision, the more likely you are to produce a litter with the traits you desire.

You should also be aware of any hereditary problems that your breed may have. Every system in the body can be harmed by genetic disorders, which can occur in any breed. Some genetic diseases affect a large number of breeds, whereas others only affect one or a few. A summary of how genetic defects are passed along and expressed follows.

Only one faulty gene is required for diseases with a dominant inheritance pattern. If only one parent is afflicted, the disease will be passed down down the generations. Because some people are only moderately afflicted by the illness, it might be difficult to identify. In such situations, the condition may be misinterpreted as skipping generations.

Diseases with a recessive inheritance pattern affect homozygous animals or dogs with two defective genes. Heterozygous dogs have one mutant gene and one normal gene, and thus are carriers of the disease. They seem normal, but their kids might inherit the defective gene. Recessive mutant genes can be handed down over several generations before showing up in the progeny of two dogs with the same genetic mutation.

Polygenic diseases are caused by a combination of genes acting together. It's impossible to say how many genes are involved and what their roles are because the pattern of inheritance varies from family to family. Polygenic inheritance can often appear to be either dominant or recessive, leading to incorrect assumptions about the kind of underlying genetic defect.

Genetic disorders can also be caused by chromosomal abnormalities, which are errors in the number and structure of chromosomes. Genes are usually found on 39 pairs of chromosomes in dogs. Serious problems can result from major chromosomal numbers and structural abnormalities.

Step 6: Complete the Stud Contract

You've done all of the required health tests and genetic testing, and you've found the ideal match for your bitch. It's now time to sort out the mating specifics.

Working out a contract with the owner of the stud dog before breeding is a good idea. All duties and conditions should be explicitly stated in the stud fee agreement, which should be in writing. The contract should be signed by all parties involved in the transaction, and each signer should get a copy.

Step 7: Conduct pre-breeding health checks.

It takes a long time to breed a good puppy, and it takes a long time to produce a good puppy. To create the greatest progeny, both parents require long-term care, or training as it is known among dog owners. This includes routine veterinarian care, genetic testing, pre-breeding tests, and regular exercise, and proper nourishment. Before breeding, heifers should not be overweight and have a good muscular tone. Furthermore, a bitch in excellent mental health will be a better mother than one who is insecure, irritable, or otherwise temperamentally unstable.

The bitch should undergo a complete pre-breeding physical checkup by a veterinarian one month before breeding. Her immunizations should be up to date, and she should be checked for parasites and treated if necessary.

You should also get the bitch and male checked for brucellosis, a bacterial infection that can cause sterility or sudden miscarriage in dogs.

The age at which dogs attain sexual maturity is heavily influenced by the breed. Smaller breeds mature more quickly than larger ones. Males, on the other hand, become fertile after six months and attain sexual maturity between 12 and 15 months. Healthy stud dogs can live to be elderly and yet be sexually active and fruitful. Males of any age can mate at any time.

After six months of age, a buck's first estrus (also known as season or heat) occurs, however it can happen as late as 18 months to two years of age. Estrus occurs at about six-month intervals until late in life. The female is fertile during estrus and will accept a man. During her first season, the bitch should not be bred.

The cycle of a bitch is split into four stages.

Proestrus :Males are attracted to the bitch, who has a bloody vaginal discharge and a large vulva. Proestrus lasts around nine days; however, the bitch will not allow breeding at this time.
Estrus: The bitch accepts the male and becomes fertile during this time, which lasts around nine days. Ovulation generally happens during the first 48 hours, however, this might vary a lot.
Diestrus: is the time in which the reproductive system is under the control of the hormone progesterone and lasts 60 to 90 days. Whether or not the bitch becomes pregnant, this happens. During diestrus, a phenomenon known as false pregnancy occurs when a bitch exhibits indications of pregnancy even though she has not conceived.
Anestrus: There is no sexual activity. Anestrus usually lasts three to four months.

Step 8: Natural Breeding

Mating

Responsible breeders avoid breeding a bitch in her first heat to prevent putting a young, developing animal through the hardship of pregnancy and nursing. It's also usually not to breed a bitch in consecutive heats to give her enough time to recover between pregnancies.

Because bitches are less intimidated by unfamiliar settings, they are typically transported to the stud. When young males are partnered with experienced bitches, the breeding process goes more easily. During breedings, human handlers may be required to provide help or guidance. Because of anatomical concerns, certain breeds are more likely to require help than others. Discussing this with your breeder can assist you in being prepared.

The male mounts the female from behind and clasps her stomach with his front legs during breeding. Rapid pelvic thrusts follow until ejaculation and penetration occur. The dog and bitch will not separate for 10 to 30 minutes after the pelvic thrusts have stopped. This is known as a tie and is caused by a swelling portion of the penis known as the bulbous glands. During the knot, the guy is free to walk around until he and the bitch are back to back. Attempting to separate the dogs during the knot may cause injury to one or both of them. They will inevitably split after some time.

Artificial Insemination

When natural breeding is not possible, artificial insemination is a straightforward process that may be utilized.

Step 9: Pregnancy and Whelping Preparation

Keep an eye out for Pregnancy Signs

The gestation period in dogs is about 63 days. An increase in appetite, weight, and nipple size are all signs of pregnancy. A bitch with a fake pregnancy, on the other hand, may exhibit these symptoms. At 28 days, a veterinarian may generally confirm pregnancy by palpating the abdomen or utilizing ultrasound or X-rays.

Once your pregnancy has been verified, speak with your veterinarian about any specific dietary requirements as well as what to expect throughout pregnancy, labor, and delivery. You should also be taught how to detect and react to a crisis.

Ensure that your pregnant bitch receives the nutrition she requires.

A bitch in good shape should maintain her calorie intake throughout pregnancy at the same level as she did during adult maintenance. Only gradually increase her food intake as her body weight rises, starting approximately five weeks before whelping. Daily food intake should be gradually raised until she is eating 35 to 50% more than normal at the time of whelping. Begin providing small, frequent meals as her weight and food consumption rise to avoid the pain that bigger meals might bring, especially in a tiny dog.

You shouldn't need to add anything to your bitch's food throughout her pregnancy if you've been giving her a well-balanced, high-quality diet. Some breeders, however, recommend supplementing with a protein source such as evaporated milk, eggs, meat, or liver. These supplements should never account for more than 10% of the bitch's daily calories.

Get your Bitch used to the Whelping Box.

It's a good idea to construct a whelping box ahead of time so the bitch can become used to it. Unless you've already trained her to use a whelping box, she could choose for your closet or another inconvenient location as a delivery chamber.

You shouldn't need to add anything to your bitch's food throughout her pregnancy if you've been giving her a well-balanced, high-quality diet. Supplementing with a protein source such as evaporated milk, eggs, meat, or liver is recommended by certain breeders.These supplements should never account for more than 10% of the bitch's daily calories.

Get your Bitch used to the Whelping Box.

Warm, dry, quiet, draft-free, and away from all other canines is the perfect whelping setting. Your bitch's confinement and whelping site are determined by her breed and size.

A good whelping box is spacious with low edges so you can reach in easily. It should also have a tiny ledge or roll bars running halfway up the sides to provide the puppies something to crawl under if the bitch rolls on them. Because paper can be readily changed when it becomes soiled, many breeders choose to line the box with newspapers until after delivery. Newspapers are usually replaced after whelping with non-skid bath mats, outdoor carpeting, or something else that gives the puppies a better footing.

Whelping Supplies Suggestions:

Newspaper	Bitch and puppy bedding; whelping box liner before, during, and after whelping
Bath Mats	After whelping, bedding for the mother and pups
Clean Towels	During whelping, keep the puppies clean.
Paper Towels	Make sure the whelping space is clean.
Thermostat	Before whelping, take the temperature of the bitch.
Un-waxed Dental Floss	tying the umbilical cords of puppies
Heating Pad	Warm up the pups. Make certain it doesn't become too heated.
Scissors	Cut the placenta or the umbilical cords of pups.
Iodine	Clean the puppies' abdomen after the umbilical cord has been cut (by bitch or breeder).

Keep an eye out for labor signs.

A few days before the bitch is ready to give birth, she may stop eating and begin constructing a "nest" in which she intends to deliver her pups – this should be in the whelping box you have prepared for her if introduced correctly.

The bitch's body temperature will drop to 99 degrees or lower just before whelping (from a normal temperature of 100 to 102.5).

She should start the first stage of labor around 24 hours after her fever drops when the cervix dilates and opens the delivery canal to allow the pups to come through. She will pant, strain, and look restless at this time. Actual abdominal straining and the generation of pups and placentas follow this stage of labor.

You should have the phone numbers for your veterinarian and the local emergency facility available.

step 10: Puppies are born

Most bitches are capable of giving birth without the assistance of humans. Each puppy comes from the womb in its placental sac, which must be removed before the youngster can breathe. The umbilical cord is generally severed when the membrane is ripped off (and occasionally eaten) by the mother. She will lick each puppy after delivery to encourage its breathing.

Because a retained placenta might create difficulties, you should keep note of how many placentas are delivered and make sure that the amount matches the number of puppies.

If the bitch fails to extract a sac or sever an umbilical cord, you must take over. A puppy can only stay within the sac for a few minutes before running out of air. To remove the puppy, tear the sac membrane at the puppy's head and pull it back until the puppy may be gently removed. Then, using a cloth, gently wipe the puppy's mouth and nose to promote circulation and remove any mucous or fluids. The umbilical cord can be knotted with unwaxed dental floss and cut around two inches from the abdomen on the far side of the tie/knot. To avoid infection, the cut end should be coated with iodine.

The bitch will be washing her puppies, warming them, and enabling them to suckle after they are born. Pups must suckle as soon as they emerge from the womb. They can eat colostrum, a milk-like fluid containing maternal antibodies that are generated in the mammary glands shortly after birth, by sucking. Colostrum aids newborn puppies in fighting infection throughout their early days as their immune systems develop.

Identifying and weighing pups within the first two weeks is recommended to track puppy nutrition.

Step 11: If Complications Occur, Consult Your Veterinarian.

Don't hesitate to contact your veterinarian if something goes wrong. The following are warning signs of impending trouble:

Signs of a lot of pain
Contractions that are quite strong lasting more than 45 minutes without a pup being delivered
More than two hours have passed since the puppies were born, with or without contractions.
Shivering, trembling, or collapsing
Before the first puppy is born, a dark green or red fluid is passed (after the first puppy, this is normal)
By the 64th day following her previous mating, she had shown no signs of labor.

Step 12: Ensure that your puppies are kept warm, fed, and clean.

Temperature

A newborn puppy's body temperature is uncontrollable, therefore it must be kept warm. The puppy will be stressed and susceptible to infectious illness if it is chilled; overheating will kill it. A well-insulated electric heating pad or a heat lamp can be used to regulate the ambient temperature. However, if the pups grow too hot, make sure they have a cool area to crawl to.

For the first five days of life, the temperature in the immediate area should be regulated between 85 and 90 degrees. The temperature can be progressively decreased to 80 degrees between the seventh and tenth days, and 75 degrees by the end of the fourth week.

Nursing

Colostrum is the first milk produced by the bitch after whelping. Colostrum should be consumed by every puppy as soon as possible after birth, preferably within the first 24 hours. Immunoglobulins in colostrum protect infants against infectious illnesses to which the mother is immune.

Canine mastitis is something to keep an eye out for in your nursing pooches. It isn't very frequent, but it is something to be aware of. Canine mastitis is a breast infection that affects bitches a few weeks after they give birth. A lactating bitch's breasts are normally warm and swollen. If your breasts seem red, black, hot, or painful when handled, you should call your veterinarian right once. Advanced canine mastitis manifests as a hard, heated, nearly black breast section that causes the bitch excruciating agony when handled. Weaning pups too early, severe scrapes from puppies' claws or another infection can all induce canine mastitis. A bitch with canine mastitis may have a fever, be sedentary, and refuse to eat. She may also refuse to let her pups feed, and if she does, she will be "snappy" if they come into contact with the afflicted region.

After you've whelped your bitch, you'll need to look after her.

For the first day or two after whelping, some bitches consume very little. Then, in approximately three weeks, their desire and need for all nutrients skyrockets. To avoid eclampsia, sufficient calcium, phosphorus, and vitamin D must be consumed throughout this time. Supplementation is unnecessary since optimal quantities of these nutrients are already available in a high-quality diet. Nervousness, whimpering, uneven stride, and spasms are all symptoms of eclampsia. Despite its seriousness, timely veterinarian care can easily cure it.

The bitch should be around the same weight after whelping as when she was bred, but not more than 5 to 10% heavier. She'll require two or three times her regular maintenance diet for the first three weeks after whelping to help her give nutritious milk to her puppies. This dish should be split into three or four portions. The diet should have the same composition as it had throughout the third trimester of her pregnancy, except for the daily amount.

Orphaned Puppies' Care

If their mother is unable or unwilling to breastfeed their puppies, they must be hand-fed. Cow's milk is a poor alternative for bitch's milk, which is more concentrated and has twice as much protein, nearly twice as many calories, and more than twice as much calcium and phosphorus. Commercial puppy formula is advised for feeding puppies; carefully follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

Keep in mind that puppies develop quickly, so weigh them every day before calculating how much to feed them.

If the puppy responds well to hand feeding, you may need to start with slightly less formula at each meal and gradually increase the amount. Consistent weight increase and well-formed stools are the greatest indicators of success. If diarrhea occurs, lower the puppy's intake to half of what it was previously, then gradually raise it back to the recommended level. Diarrhea in infants may be quite serious, so get guidance from a veterinarian.

Because milk is a bacterial growth medium, never make more formula than is needed on any given day. Maintain a clean environment at all times. Warm the formula to around 100 degrees Fahrenheit or close to body temperature before feeding. Hold the bottle at an angle with the nipple to prevent air bubbles. When the bottle is inverted, the hole in the nipple can be gently expanded with a heated needle to allow the milk to seep out slowly. Sucking should be forceful, but not at an excessive rate. If the puppies aren't nursing well, see a veterinarian. You may need to use tube feeding, which is best learned from a medical practitioner.

After each meal, pups must be encouraged to defecate and urinate. Normally, this stimulation is provided by the mother's licking, but orphaned puppies will require human assistance. With a cotton ball soaked in warm water, gently massage the puppy's anal area.

Any hand-reared puppy will benefit from a gentle body massage. Massage improves circulation and wakes the puppy completely. With a soft cloth, stroke the puppy's sides and back. When the pups are waking up and you're waiting for the formula to warm up, it seems like the perfect moment to give them a message.

Step 13: As Soon As Possible After Whelping, Register Your Litter with the AKC.

As a breeder, one of your most essential responsibilities is to make sure your litter is registered with the AKC. The pups' registration creates a record of their place in the history of your breeding operation as well as the breed's progress. It also allows the puppies' new owners to take use of the AKC's extensive range of services, information, and activities.

When the puppy is sold, you should be able to present the new owners with a registration application. As a result, you must register your litter as soon as the pups are born.

You have two simple choices for registering your litter. Online Litter Registration is where you may register your litter. You may obtain your litter kit as soon as two to five business days after registering your litter online. You may also fill up an application and mail it to the AKC.

Another option to give your puppies a good start in life is to register them with the AKC. It also demonstrates to your future puppy parents that you are a committed and responsible breeder.

Step 14: Separate the Puppies from Their Mother

When it comes to weaning your puppies, there are a lot of regulations to consider. Breeders that have a lot of experience prefer to utilize strategies that work best for them and their breed. It is suggested that you speak with your veterinarian about a feeding schedule for your litter.

Weaning begins in most puppies between the ages of two and four weeks. Some breeders advise giving them a pan of puppy formula instead of their mother's milk to start with. To make gruel, some breeders mix the puppy formula with some presoaked or ground dry puppy food and/or baby rice cereal.

Most breeders begin to increase the amount of food and reduce the amount of formula as the puppies get older.

All changes in diet or feeding patterns should be introduced gradually to minimize stomach problems.

Step 15: Delivering Your Puppies to Their New Homes

By this point, you've studied everything there is to know about your breed and are well-versed in the benefits and drawbacks of ownership. It's critical to convey this information to potential puppy owners, even the bad elements. You should be able to explain why a dog that requires a lot of coat care or training isn't the greatest fit for a workaholic, or why a little dog isn't the best fit for a household with small, energetic children.

A responsible breeder ensures that their puppies are placed in loving homes. This entails a thorough examination and screening of each individual or family interested in adopting a puppy. Breeders may get a sense of the sort of home they will give by asking the proper questions to prospective owners. Some examples of these inquiries are:

What is the person's or family's motivation for getting a dog? Why did the individual or family choose this breed?
Who will be in charge of the dog's care the most?
Do you have the time to satisfy the puppy's/demanding dog's needs? Is it time to eat, train, and exercise?
Are there any kids around? If that's the case, how old are they? How would they be taught how to look after the dog?
Is there anyone in the house who suffers from allergies?
Are the new owners dedicated to maintaining the property's appearance and health?
What is the attitude of the future owner toward training and obedience?
What is the average number of times someone is at home?
Will they be able to take the dog for a walk and play with him?
Are the new owners willing to register their dogs with the American Kennel Club (AKC)?

AKC Breeders must deliver AKC registration paperwork to the puppy's new owners. This entails applying for litter registration in advance so that applications may be distributed to owners at the time of sale. You should explain the advantages of registering to the owners and assist them in filling out the registration form. Conditions like restricted registration or co-ownership should be well stated. Vaccination/health records, feeding instructions, health guarantees, return policy, any health or genetic testing, and a copy of the sales agreement/contract should also be sent to the new puppy owners.

Make a Lifetime Commitment to the Puppies

The obligation of breeders does not cease when their pups are given to new owners. Responsible breeders make it clear to their pups' new homes that they may come to them with any concerns or difficulties that occur during their lives.

Phone calls and letters outlining your puppies' first teeth, birthday celebrations, and other milestones will make you happy as a breeder. Photographs of a puppy's first show win or photographs of the puppy in the center of a happy family will make you smile. However, you must be prepared for terrible news, such as a family breaking up and leaving the dog homeless; a vet informing you about an unanticipated genetic ailment or a dog you thought would be a wonderful obedience possibility attacking a little child. All of these circumstances will require you, as a breeder, to provide guidance and assistance. Responsible breeders respond to concerns, give information, and help with any issues that may arise.Responsible breeders respond to concerns, give information, and help with any issues that may arise. If necessary, responsible breeders aid in rehoming or take in puppies.

Step 16: Encourage new owners to register their puppy with the American Kennel Club (AKC).

Getting All of Your Puppy Registrations Done!

Before you send your pups off to their new homes, be sure to tell them about the American Kennel Club, which is their greatest source (besides you!) for advice on living a long, happy, active life with their new pet.

The AKC is committed to providing service and assistance to purebred dog owners. You may assist us in reaching out to prospective owners as a breeder by following these simple steps:

Give the new owners the individual registration application and assist them in filling it out correctly. Describe the advantages of registration, as well as any restrictions, such as restricted registration or co-ownership. Both you and the new owners must fill out the application and sign it. Because the new owners may be unfamiliar with the form, you should double-check that it is correctly filled out as soon as the transaction is completed.

Emphasize the advantages of joining the AKC.

New puppy parents will get more than $100 in registration bonuses when they register their dog with the AKC!

AKC Registration Certificate that may be framed
A free initial visit to a participating veterinarian in the AKC Veterinary Network is provided.
AKC Pet Insurance* provides 30 days of pet insurance coverage at no cost or commitment to the owner. Soon after registering, you will receive information.
AKC New Puppy Handbook is available for free.
Enrollment in a pet lost-and-found recovery service at a discounted cost

Encourage the new owners to fill out the AKC registration form. Many new owners mistakenly assume the application is the dog's official registration document. You should inform them that their dog will not be legally registered until the form is completed and the appropriate cost is paid. Show them an example of a registration certificate so they can anticipate what the AKC will send them.
Emphasize the significance of AKC registration. AKC registration is beneficial to both owners and pets. AKC's mission as a non-profit registry is to canine health, breeder rights, and responsible dog ownership. AKC supports a wide range of programs and projects that help us achieve our purpose, such as:

The AKC Canine Health Foundation conducts research to treat and cure illnesses that affect dogs.
Initiatives in canine legislation that aid in the protection of breeder rights
K-9 search and rescue programs are available.
Inspections of kennels around the country to monitor care and conditions
DNA profiling of dogs guarantees accurate registration records
Responsible dog ownership may be encouraged via education.

AKC also supports AKC affiliates and programs such as AKC Companion Animal Recovery, AKC Canine Good Citizen®, AKC Veterinary Network, AKC Library, AKC Museum of the Dog, and many more by sanctioning over 20,000 competitive dog events each year.

New owners should be informed that their dogs cannot compete in dog shows, companion dog competitions, or performance events without an AKC registration number. They should be informed that without an AKC registration number, their dog's progeny (if breeding is a possibility) would be unable to be registered. Perhaps more significantly, people should be informed that unless they register their dog, they will lose out on the plethora of information and services that the AKC is ready to give to registered dog owners.

New dog owners are immediately enrolled in an outreach program aimed to improve their dog-owning experience when they register. The AKC will keep dog owners informed about interesting dog events conducted around the country, laws impacting dog owners, and canine health improvements and alerts.

The American Kennel Club (AKC) values and celebrates the human-dog relationship. Whether a puppy is bought as a show candidate, a hunting dog, a future agility star, or a cherished companion, the bond between a dog and its owners has numerous benefits. With an AKC certification, those benefits can be doubled. You may contribute to this as a breeder.

Frequently Asked Questions:

Q: Is it possible for my dog to become pregnant if the knot does not form?

A: If the male did not tie with your dog, it is likely that no sperm was discharged. Dogs will occasionally mount but then leap off before completing the task.

The female is unlikely to be pregnant, however I cannot ensure it because the male may have had an unusual physiology.

Q: My female dog allows my male dog to mount her, but she suddenly bolts and yelps. So, what should I do now?

A: It may be too early for your female dog if she refuses to allow your male dog to mount her or if she refuses to be bred. If the moment is right and she still won't stand, you can hold her in place, but you'll most likely require assistance.

To assist you with the dogs, you should contact an expert breeder in your region. Some veterinarians will also assist you with this, but you must first phone around to see whether the veterinarian is willing and able to assist you before scheduling an appointment.

Q: My Cane Corsos have been tying for four mornings in a row, but my female is still bleeding and eager to stand. Is that typical?

A: That's quite typical. Wishing you the best of success with your new puppies.

Q: My Chihuahua bleeds for up to two weeks on average. When is the ideal moment for you to mate with her?

When your dog is ready to breed, you should mate her. If she continues to bleed for more than ten days, consider pairing her with the male every day and breeding her as soon as she stands.

Q: My male dog ejaculated inside my female dog who isn't in heat. Will the sperm survive till she is in heat, and if so, will she become pregnant right away?

A: If a female dog is not in heat, she will not allow a male to mount her and ejaculate within her.

Q: My female dog sits and refuses to allow my male dog to do his business. What options do I have?

A: If your girl is seated, the answer is straightforward. You must support her at the waist so that the guy may mount her while she is unable to sit.

Some dogs will try to bite you if you push them to perform something they don't want to do. You might have to put a muzzle on her for this.

Q: My male husky once tied with my female husky, and now she won't let him near her. I'm not sure what I can do to assist her.

A: If your female refuses to stand for the male, she is most likely no longer in heat. If the male is interested in mounting her, you might be able to compel her to breed.

Q: Is it necessary for the male and female dogs to be the same weight?

A: It doesn't have to be identical, and it usually isn't. Males of big dog breeds are much larger than females. Some breeders prefer larger females (small dog breeds) but employ extremely small males.

To reach the female, the male may need to stand on something if he is little.

Q: My dog (Lhasa Apso) is five years old. Is it possible for her to be in heat and get pregnant at this age?

A: A five-year-old Lhasa will be able to go into heat and carry babies since she is still a young dog. If she has never had a litter, make an appointment with your normal veterinarian.

Q: Should I put my female dog in the same cage as the male dog to induce them to breed?

A: It doesn't have to be identical, and it usually isn't. Males of big dog breeds are much larger than females. Some breeders prefer larger females (small dog breeds) but employ extremely small males.

To reach the female, the male may need to stand on something if he is little.

Q: My dog (Lhasa Apso) is five years old. Is it possible for her to be in heat and get pregnant at this age?

A: A five-year-old Lhasa will be able to go into heat and carry babies since she is still a young dog. If she has never had a litter, make an appointment with your normal veterinarian.

Q: Should I put my female dog in the same cage as the male dog to induce them to breed?

A: Are you referring to a crate? No. She should not be with the man when you are not with her. Don't just lock them up and go away.

Q: In two days, my female dog was successfully stuck with a male four times. She rejected the man after two days. It's already the 50th day, but no symptoms of pregnancy have surfaced. Is she expecting a child?

A: If her abdomen has not grown in size, she is most likely not pregnant, but anything can happen, and I can't say for sure. You should take her to your usual veterinarian for an ultrasound.

It's conceivable that your female isn't fertile if she isn't pregnant. If the male isn't an established breeder, he could have issues as well.

Q: Is it usual for a female dog to release a large amount of male sperm after unlocking?

A: Yes, it is correct. Some breeders lift the female (as if she were a wheelbarrow), but there is so much sperm and so many semen cells that this isn't necessary. Even before the male dismounts, the majority of the semen is making its way up the female's reproductive canal.

Q: How many days should I count after discovering her heat cycle before taking her to a male dog?

A:The answer varies from dog to dog. It takes approximately a week from the time she starts bleeding to the time she stands to be bred.

If the male's owner has a kennel and will let you bring the female there for a few days, do so ahead of time.

Q: If the guy slips and they don't tie, would the female still get pregnant?

A: While there have been rare incidents of a male not tying and yet inseminating a female, the female will not be pregnant if the male does not tie.

Q:My German Shepherd, who is four years old, has been bleeding for eleven days. When should I introduce her to a man?

A: Dogs are generally bloated for approximately a week, then bleed for another week before being ready to procreate in the final week. As you can see, it varies. Now is the time to try putting your dog with the male to determine if she will tolerate being bred.

Q: Three days after my female dog's previous crossing, I noticed sperm trickling out of her. Is it a terrible thing?

A: I believe what you observed was pus, not sperm, pouring from her vagina. It does not take very many cells to be bred and inseminated, therefore if there was enough present that it was seeping out of your dog, that is not a concern.

If it was pus, there would be two possibilities. Your dog will be infected and will either not get pregnant or will give birth to dead or sick puppies as a result of the illness. If this were my dog, I'd want her examined out and maybe given a vaginal swab and culture.

Q: I have a dog that is in heat. On the 16th day, she was bound by my male. Is it possible that she will become pregnant?

A: It is quite likely that a female will become pregnant if she is prepared to stand to be bred and the male ties.

Q: My Doberman was attempting to mate with my female pitbull, but she had already been bred, and I assumed she was no longer in heat. Is it possible for the Doberman to breed with the female even if she has previously been bred?

A: If your Doberman and Pitbull mate, you may end up with a litter of mixed puppies, with some having one father and some having another. This is prevalent among street dogs whose breeding is unregulated. The greatest thing you can do is separate them until the female refuses to mate with the male.

Q: My puppy is just nine months old. My neighbor's Lhasa mounted her today, and the two of them were trapped for nearly 15 minutes. She isn't even a year old! So, what should I do now?

A: Your dog is far too young to safely produce puppies. The best thing you can do for her is taking her to your veterinarian as soon as possible before the pregnancy progresses and get her spayed.

Q: Is there a chance that my female dog may become pregnant if the male ties but just for a short time?

A: Yes, that is feasible. If the male was "connected" to the female, then sperm had been discharged. You can, however, arrange an ultrasound with your veterinarian to be sure. Call to find out when your veterinarian intends to do the surgery.

Q: Is it OK to wash my female dog after she has given birth?

A: Because many dogs are coated in mud, filth, or fluids when they get home from breeding, they generally require a bath. It's acceptable to bathe your dog as soon as you arrive home as long as she doesn't get overly enthusiastic. If your dog becomes agitated while being bathed, wait a few days or give her a dry bath with finely crushed oatmeal and thorough brushing.

Q: My puppy is five months old. I'm not sure when I should breed her.

A: Your dog is still a puppy, so don't worry. She is still developing, therefore if she has pups right now, her bones will stop expanding and she will not reach her full size. Never breed a puppy before she is fully grown. Wait till she's around 18 months old before doing so.

Q: My dog's progesterone levels were 1.7 on Wednesday and 8.9 on Monday. She was bred during a 25-minute tie on Tuesday evening. We tried again on Wednesday evening, but neither the man nor her showed any interest. Do you believe one breeding was sufficient?

A: Sometimes just once is enough. If the male refused to mate and she refused to stand to be mated, it was likely that her hormone levels had dropped.

She's most likely already bred. For the following two months, take careful care of her.

Q: Is it too late to breed a female Brussel Griffon at the age of ten?

A: If a middle-aged dog has already had pups, she can still be bred. Even a tiny breed like the Brussels Griffon should not be bred at the age of 10. If you intend to sell the puppies, the registering body (such as the AKC) is unlikely to allow the litter to be registered at all.

Q: My boy and female dogs mate many times a day. Is this typical of her during her period?

A: There's nothing wrong with dogs having several litters. However, as a breeder, you should have the ability to separate your dogs so that you can regulate who they breed with.

If a female is bred too frequently, the only problem she may face is a vaginal infection caused by the entrance of many germs (from the male). This doesn't happen very often, and street dogs often mate with every available male in the neighborhood with no issues.

Q: My female lab is already one year old. She's also letting the man mate with her. So, should I simply let them to their own devices or separate them?

A: Even if the female is willing to be bred, you should keep the dogs separate. Eighteen months is the earliest you should consider breeding a dog, but two years is much better.

Q: What should I do if my Golden Retriever is in heat and I want to breed her successfully?

A: If this is your first time breeding your dog, you should consult a Golden breeder first. Are you sure your female is ready to be bred? Do you have any pups for adoption? Will you find a new home for the puppy if the new owner takes him back, or will you adopt him? Before proceeding further, you need to know the answers to these questions.

Q: I crossed my female dog on her third and fourth heats, but she did not conceive. I crossed her on the 9th, 11th, and 13th days of her third heat: she bled in the morning on the 13th day, but the vet claimed it was due to pushing her to be crossed on the 9th day. I crossed her with a different male on her 9th, 10th, 12th, 14th, and even 17th day of her 4th heat, but she still didn't get pregnant. What should I do, please?

A: It appears that you are following the instructions for the letter. That would be my first option if you hadn't previously attempted to mate her with another man.

Another major possibility is that she is not ovulating and so will not conceive. It does happen, albeit it is quite rare.

I'd try another man when she has her next heat. Allowing the man to mount at the time you specified is the appropriate course of action. If she doesn't conceive again, you may try again (since these things can happen), get her spayed so you don't have to worry about her while she's in heat, or take her to your local veterinary college for a complete examination.

The university's veterinary staff may elect to use an endoscope to check her uterus and ovaries. They could try putting her on hormones to induce estrus, then flushing her uterus to look for any eggs she sheds.

You're going to have to pay for this. If the prospective advantages from the puppies aren't worth it, spaying her is the preferable option. If you're a hobby breeder, you could simply be interested in one of her puppies, in which case money isn't an issue. You must make a decision.

Q: Is it necessary for a male dog to be in heat as well?

A: Male dogs are not need to be in heat. They are quick to respond and can fertilise a female dog at any time.

Q: My female Rottweiler has been bleeding for the past two days. I'm not sure when I should take her to a man.

A: The majority of dogs bleed for roughly a week. They will not allow themselves to be bred until the bleeding has stopped.

You are welcome to take her at any moment, but she will most likely refuse to be bred. This varies from dog to dog, so the best thing you can do is take her to the male, let him attempt to breed with her, and then bring her back in two days if she isn't interested.

Q: How effective are Doberman Pinchers during labour? I was considering breeding my female, but I'd be screwed if she died.

A: When it comes to breeding your dog, there are always difficulties and certain risks. Have you had Von Willebrand's disease tested on your Dobie? She might bleed out and die if she starts bleeding after birth.

If she were my dog, I wouldn't put her life in jeopardy.

Q: I intentionally inseminated my dog, and some offspring resulted. Could she still be expecting a child?

A: It's impossible to say how much, if any, was put into your female dog. The only way to be sure is to test her for pregnancy.

Q: I have a 2-year-old female labrador retriever. How many times need she mate in order to conceive?

A: Once may be sufficient. To guarantee that all of your Lab's eggs are fertilised, I always allow my dogs to mate every two days while the female is waiting to be bred. It usually happens three or four times.

Q: Why is it not a good idea to breed my female dog when she first comes into heat, and what would happen if I did?

A: It is not a good idea to breed a dog the first time she comes into heat. Permitting a 12-year-old female to have a kid, for example, is akin to allowing a 12-year-old girl to have a child. She may be physically capable of doing so, but she lacks maturity.

There are several potential adverse effects. If you let this happen, your dog will most likely be physically and maybe intellectually stunted.

Q: My female dog is eight years old. I'm not sure if it's too late for my pitbull to mate. I believe she need at least one litter. Is it possible that I am insane?

A: An eight-year-old pitbull is too old to produce her first litter. It's like asking a 50-year-old lady to give birth to her first kid. In certain cases, it may be feasible, but it is not a good idea.

Is it necessary for your dog to produce a litter? Not in the least. She'll be just fine without it. You should talk to your veterinarian about getting her spayed to prevent pyometra (a uterine infection that can kill her) and uterine and ovarian cancer.

Not at all! Thank you for inquiring before subjecting her to this.

Q: The male we've picked to mate our lab is somewhat taller than the female we've chosen, and he's having trouble locating the appropriate position. They're both ready and willing, but he's well off the mark. How can we help, or will he discover her on his own?

A: The only method to assist a dog that is unable to locate the objective is to lead him in. In certain purebred dogs, this is a pretty frequent issue. This has happened to both dogs and horses.

If you don't think you'll be able to accomplish it on your own, you'll need the assistance of an experienced breeder. If you don't know anybody in your region, contact your local veterinarian. They might be able to assist you, but you'll have to pay for their time.

Q: My three-year-old German shepherd will not let our male German shepherd to breed her at any point throughout her cycle. What options do I have?

A: Not all females are willing to mate with all men. Your first move should be to put her in a relationship with another man. If you don't want to do that, you'll need the help of an expert breeder who knows how to confine the female so that the male may mount her regardless of her preferences;

There isn't always something wrong with a man. He isn't always suitable to the female, and she will sit down so he won't be able to procreate.

Q: My dog is a year old, but she still has a lot of puppy instincts. Is it now safe to breed her?

A: Just because your dog is emotionally mature does not imply she is physically mature. It is not a smart idea to breed her right now. Wait until her next heat cycle, when she will be eighteen months old and physically more mature.

Q: My dog has been in heat for the past seven to eight days. When should I allow the male dog to begin attempting to mate?

A: When your dog will stand to be bred, she is ready to be bred. You should place her with the male after she has been in heat for about a week and is no longer bleeding to see if she would accept him. If she refuses, give it another two days.

Q: I have a female Chiweenie who weighs 11-12 pounds and a male Chiweenie who weighs 15 pounds and stands a little higher. Is he too big for her to breed with?

A: The difference in weight should not be an issue. Your female Chiweenie is definitely big enough to produce puppies without any issues, but after breeding and before the puppies are delivered, have an ultrasound done to see how big they are.

Q: Is it acceptable if I take my female dog for a stroll three days after mating her?

A: If you wish to start exercising your female dog after mating, there are no issues. A typical stroll is acceptable, but don't overdo it.

Q: I'm a dog breeder, and I have a female that I'd want to mate with my male. When she refused to stand, he became extremely pushy and exhibited all of his interest. But now when she's ready and pleading for it, he's completely uninterested. What am I supposed to do now?

A: It appears that your man is now scared of her. It can happen to even the toughest of dogs. If you gag the female and have someone hold her so she can't move around and sniff him, it can help. (Even if she isn't aggressive right now, he isn't aware of it. It could make him feel better if he sees you in command of her.)

This isn't always the case, though. When a male Sibe leaped over a fence and attacked the breeding male before he could mount, I witnessed this. He refused to breed after that occurrence because he was so scared.

The greatest option is to breed with another guy. He may never have another problem since he was intimidated by this woman.

Q: Is it usual for a male dog to be aggressive and cross with a female dog before attempting to breed?

A: I suppose it depends on how you define mean. Yes, kids can be a handful. Humans do not engage in any form of breeding. It's extreme if he bites her so hard that he tears her skin open. It's natural for some guys to nibble at her if he's just nipping at her.

Q: My American bulldog displayed all the indications of being in heat, so we put AIs on her; four weeks later, she allowed the male to mount her. Is this typical?

A: A dog returning to heat after only four weeks is quite unusual. Your dog should not come into heat for six months even if the AI was unsuccessful.

Q: Is it okay if I don't breed my female dog for two years before breeding her?

A: That's just OK. She'll be an adult, yet still young enough to be adaptable (to pass the pups).

But what about a two-year interval between litters? I don't see a problem with this, but it isn't standard practise among most of the breeders I know. The only issue would be if the woman was elderly. I'm not sure where you live, but in the United States, the AKC will only register puppies born to a young female. Even if an older mother continues to whelp, her puppies will not be registered.

Q: What is the best way to tell whether a female dog is in heat?

A: A swelling vulva will most likely be the first thing you notice. She'll also be prone to squatting and urinating more frequently. (Her urine includes hormones that alert guys that she is about to have a period.) She wants to urinate as much as she can, in as many places as she can, to notify all of the nearby male dogs.)

She'll start oozing blood a bit later. For some people, this is the first thing they notice.

Make sure to contact the male's owner at that time so that she may take your dog in. In a few days to a week, she will typically stand to be bred, and frequently after the bleeding has ceased.

Q: My female Rottweiler was still leaking something bloody after giving birth. Do you have any idea what it is?

A: It depends on how long the dog has been pregnant. This is a typical part of birth if it just happened soon after and then ceased. If it persists, you should take her to the vet since it might mean internal haemorrhaging or a retained placeta with a secondary infection.

Q: How can I get my Golden Retriever to mate with my other Golden?

A: Dogs do not require any training to mating. Something is amiss if your male refuses to mount the female during her heat, when she will stand to be bred. You can seek advice from your local veterinarian or locate a local breeder that is ready to volunteer her time to assist your pets.

Q: My Bernese mountain dog is a five-year-old Bernese mountain dog. Is she too old to have children?

A: At that age, a Bernese Mountain Dog in good condition can still be produced. However, breeding a dog of that age for the first time has dangers, and if she is overweight or has any other issues (like as hip difficulties), there will be issues to consider before making a decision.

Please take her to a Bernese breeder in your area and get her examined.

Q: If I breed my two dogs (brother and sister), would their offspring be affected?

A: No, not all of the time. Though both parents carry a recessive gene for a genetic issue (like as hip dysplasia), the puppies will inherit the disease, even if the parents appear to be healthy. Why not seek for a higher-quality man rather than a pet if you want to breed?

Full Guide To Dog Breeding

Full Guide To Dog Breeding

This is a full guide for dog breeding, it is a step-by-step guide and the most frequently asked questions about dog breeding.Table of content

Step 1: Get Yourself Ready to Breed a Litter

Step 2: Improve through Breeding

Step 3: Recognize the Commitment

Step 4: Find an Appropriate Partner

Step 5: Understand Your Genetics

Step 6: Complete the Stud Contract

Step 7: Conduct pre-breeding health checks.

The cycle of a bitch is split into four stages.

Step 8: Natural Breeding

Mating

Artificial Insemination

Step 9: Pregnancy and Whelping Preparation

Keep an eye out for Pregnancy Signs

Ensure that your pregnant bitch receives the nutrition she requires.

Get your Bitch used to the Whelping Box.

Get your Bitch used to the Whelping Box.

Whelping Supplies Suggestions:

Keep an eye out for labor signs.

step 10: Puppies are born

Step 11: If Complications Occur, Consult Your Veterinarian.

Step 12: Ensure that your puppies are kept warm, fed, and clean.

Temperature

Nursing

After you've whelped your bitch, you'll need to look after her.

Orphaned Puppies' Care

Step 13: As Soon As Possible After Whelping, Register Your Litter with the AKC.

Step 14: Separate the Puppies from Their Mother

Step 15: Delivering Your Puppies to Their New Homes

Make a Lifetime Commitment to the Puppies

Step 16: Encourage new owners to register their puppy with the American Kennel Club (AKC).

Getting All of Your Puppy Registrations Done!

Frequently Asked Questions:

Q: Is it possible for my dog to become pregnant if the knot does not form?

A: If the male did not tie with your dog, it is likely that no sperm was discharged. Dogs will occasionally mount but then leap off before completing the task.

The female is unlikely to be pregnant, however I cannot ensure it because the male may have had an unusual physiology.

Q: My female dog allows my male dog to mount her, but she suddenly bolts and yelps. So, what should I do now?

A: It may be too early for your female dog if she refuses to allow your male dog to mount her or if she refuses to be bred. If the moment is right and she still won't stand, you can hold her in place, but you'll most likely require assistance.

To assist you with the dogs, you should contact an expert breeder in your region. Some veterinarians will also assist you with this, but you must first phone around to see whether the veterinarian is willing and able to assist you before scheduling an appointment.

Q: My Cane Corsos have been tying for four mornings in a row, but my female is still bleeding and eager to stand. Is that typical?

A: That's quite typical. Wishing you the best of success with your new puppies.

Q: My Chihuahua bleeds for up to two weeks on average. When is the ideal moment for you to mate with her?

When your dog is ready to breed, you should mate her. If she continues to bleed for more than ten days, consider pairing her with the male every day and breeding her as soon as she stands.

Q: My male dog ejaculated inside my female dog who isn't in heat. Will the sperm survive till she is in heat, and if so, will she become pregnant right away?

A: If a female dog is not in heat, she will not allow a male to mount her and ejaculate within her.

Q: My female dog sits and refuses to allow my male dog to do his business. What options do I have?

A: If your girl is seated, the answer is straightforward. You must support her at the waist so that the guy may mount her while she is unable to sit.

Some dogs will try to bite you if you push them to perform something they don't want to do. You might have to put a muzzle on her for this.

Q: My male husky once tied with my female husky, and now she won't let him near her. I'm not sure what I can do to assist her.

A: If your female refuses to stand for the male, she is most likely no longer in heat. If the male is interested in mounting her, you might be able to compel her to breed.

Q: Is it necessary for the male and female dogs to be the same weight?

A: It doesn't have to be identical, and it usually isn't. Males of big dog breeds are much larger than females. Some breeders prefer larger females (small dog breeds) but employ extremely small males.

To reach the female, the male may need to stand on something if he is little.

Q: My dog (Lhasa Apso) is five years old. Is it possible for her to be in heat and get pregnant at this age?

A: A five-year-old Lhasa will be able to go into heat and carry babies since she is still a young dog. If she has never had a litter, make an appointment with your normal veterinarian.

Q: Should I put my female dog in the same cage as the male dog to induce them to breed?

A: It doesn't have to be identical, and it usually isn't. Males of big dog breeds are much larger than females. Some breeders prefer larger females (small dog breeds) but employ extremely small males.

To reach the female, the male may need to stand on something if he is little.

Q: My dog (Lhasa Apso) is five years old. Is it possible for her to be in heat and get pregnant at this age?

A: A five-year-old Lhasa will be able to go into heat and carry babies since she is still a young dog. If she has never had a litter, make an appointment with your normal veterinarian.

Q: Should I put my female dog in the same cage as the male dog to induce them to breed?

A: Are you referring to a crate? No. She should not be with the man when you are not with her. Don't just lock them up and go away.

Q: In two days, my female dog was successfully stuck with a male four times. She rejected the man after two days. It's already the 50th day, but no symptoms of pregnancy have surfaced. Is she expecting a child?

A: If her abdomen has not grown in size, she is most likely not pregnant, but anything can happen, and I can't say for sure. You should take her to your usual veterinarian for an ultrasound.

It's conceivable that your female isn't fertile if she isn't pregnant. If the male isn't an established breeder, he could have issues as well.

Q: Is it usual for a female dog to release a large amount of male sperm after unlocking?

A: Yes, it is correct. Some breeders lift the female (as if she were a wheelbarrow), but there is so much sperm and so many semen cells that this isn't necessary. Even before the male dismounts, the majority of the semen is making its way up the female's reproductive canal.

Q: How many days should I count after discovering her heat cycle before taking her to a male dog?

A:The answer varies from dog to dog. It takes approximately a week from the time she starts bleeding to the time she stands to be bred.

If the male's owner has a kennel and will let you bring the female there for a few days, do so ahead of time.

Q: If the guy slips and they don't tie, would the female still get pregnant?

A: While there have been rare incidents of a male not tying and yet inseminating a female, the female will not be pregnant if the male does not tie.

Q:My German Shepherd, who is four years old, has been bleeding for eleven days. When should I introduce her to a man?

A: Dogs are generally bloated for approximately a week, then bleed for another week before being ready to procreate in the final week. As you can see, it varies. Now is the time to try putting your dog with the male to determine if she will tolerate being bred.

Q: Three days after my female dog's previous crossing, I noticed sperm trickling out of her. Is it a terrible thing?

A: I believe what you observed was pus, not sperm, pouring from her vagina. It does not take very many cells to be bred and inseminated, therefore if there was enough present that it was seeping out of your dog, that is not a concern.

If it was pus, there would be two possibilities. Your dog will be infected and will either not get pregnant or will give birth to dead or sick puppies as a result of the illness. If this were my dog, I'd want her examined out and maybe given a vaginal swab and culture.

Q: I have a dog that is in heat. On the 16th day, she was bound by my male. Is it possible that she will become pregnant?

This is a full guide for dog breeding, it is a step-by-step guide and the most frequently asked questions about dog breeding.
Table of content